My assumption is that the knitter knows the knitting basics; different stitches, ways to CO and BO, finishing, reading charts, basic abbreviations etc.But here are some basic principles that cover for all of my patterns (if I for some reason use unusual principals, I will mention it separately in the particular pattern):

  • The patterns are mainly fitted to the metric system. 1 meter is about 1,09 yards, 1 centimeter is about 0,39 inches.
  • Gauge is given for stockinette stitch, unless mentioned otherwise.
  • Gauge is always given and measured from a blocked swatch.
  • Measurements are for the finished garments, unless mentioned otherwise.
  • I refer to pattern sides as the garment is worn.
  • I don't use "eases" in my patterns. It's up to the knitters to make the decision about how loose or fitted they want the garment to be. The "ease" depends also a lot on what kind of yarn is used to the garment: cotton don't usually stretch as muck as wool for example and my patterns aren't necessary made for any particular yarn. - More about my thoughts around eases here.
  • Average size charts for hats, women's and children's measurements that are the base to my patterns.

  • Unless mentioned otherwise, increases and decreases are always knitted on the right side of the work.
  • I use short rows in my seamless top-down sweaters to shape the neckline and there are few different ways to do that.
  • Patterns with several shaping alternatives usually includes body types: H, X and A as well as shaping for the chest and for a sway back. More about the body types here.
Written parts:
  • Written pattern is always red from left to right and from top down. Some long descriptions may be shared in columns and they are also red like normal written pattern: the columns from left to right and from top down.
Difficulty rating:
  • Easy – Almost no brainer. = Basic stitches and patterns, simple color work and shaping.
  • Intermediate – Needs some thinking. = Basic techniques: cables, lace pattern, color work like simple intarsia and stranded knitting. Mid-level shaping.
  • Advanced – Keep your thoughts together. = More involved patterns. Projects using advanced techniques and stitches: advanced shaping such as short rows, more intricate color work, complex cables and lace patterns.
  • Experienced – Concentrate! = Most involved and skill-heavy projects using several different and advanced techniques at the same time.
I will add for each pattern a separate list (in Ravelry and here in my blog) of techniques that are good to be mastered or to check out in advance.

  • Unless mentioned otherwise, the charts are marked with every row. That meaning; also plain purl rows are included.
  • The charts are red from the bottom up and the first row always from right to left.
  • Schematics include usually the most important measurements: chest and bicep circumference, sleeve and garment length measured from the arm pit as well as the length for the whole garment.
  • Schematics for patterns with several alternatives for shaping waist and hips don’t include all the measurements from chest down (It would mean listing approximately 10 different measurements for only the waist, depending on what shaping’s used, for each size.).


" = inch(es)
*-* = repeat within asterisks
[-] = repeat within brackets
(-) = repeat within parentheses
bet = between
BO = bind off
CC = contrasting colour
Circ = circumference
cm = centimeter
cn = cable needle
CO = cast on
cont = continue
dec = decrease
EON = end of needle
EOR = end of row/round
inc = increase
K = knit
K1tbl = knit 1 st through the back loop
K2tog = knit 2 sts together
kb = knit sts in row below, inc
kw = knit wise
LC = left cross (cables)
LPC = left purl cross (cables)
LH = left hand
m = meter
M1 = make 1 st
M1L = make 1 left (loop leaning to left)
M1Lpw = make 1 left purl wise
M1R = make 1 right (loop leaning to right)
M1Rpw = make 1 right purl wise
MC = main colour
P = purl
pb = purl st in the row below, inc
Pfb = purl the front of the st and the back of the same st
pm = place marker
prev = previous
psso = pass slipped st over
PUW = pick up wrap and K/P it tog with wrapped st
pw = purl wise
P1tbl = purl 1 st through the back loop
P2tog = purl 2 sts together
RC = right cross (cables)
rem = remaining
rep = repeat(s)
RH = right hand
RM = (change of) row marker
rm = remove marker
rnd(s) = round(s)
RPC = right purl cross (cables)
RS = right side
sl1 = slip 1 st
sl1kw = slip 1 st knit wise
sl1pw = slip 1 st purl wise
SM = stitch marker
SM1 = stitch marker No. 1
sm = slip marker
ssk = slip st, slip st, knit these 2 sts tog tbl
ssp = slip st, slip st, purl these 2 sts tog
ssptbl = slip st, slip st, purl these 2 sts tog tbl
st(s) = stitch(es)
tbl = through back loop
tog = together
WS = wrong side
W&T = wrap yarn around the next st and turn
wyib = with yarn in back
wyif = with yarn in front
yd(s) = yard(s)
yo = yarn over
yo2 = yarn over twice
yots = yo through the st (put your right needle through the st like you would K, but make yo2 and pull back through the st, slip st from the left needle)

OBSERVE! Be aware of the capital and small letters in abbreviations! They have different meanings!

Special techniques (with links to tutorials):
Tips for special techniques:

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